Niger ~
Nomads of the Sahara
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The Sahara evokes a sense of forbidding and as the world's greatest desert reaching over 4000 miles across Africa, it is sometimes referred to as the desert continent. For some who live in its center, it is known as the ocean without water where humidity can dip below 5% and temperatures are among the most extreme on earth. Most people imagine the desert as a sea of endless dunes stretching across the horizon, but the reality is a vast panoply of differing landscapes ranging from the stark volcanic mountains of the Hoggar and Aiir that rise over 10,000 feet, to the fantastic windblown rockscapes of the Djado Plateau and the towering voluptuous dunes of Temet and Arakao. Petroglyphs of the Tassili and the Aiir Mountains give testament to greener climes when vast herds of wildlife including elephants, giraffe and gazelles could be found where only their fossils remain today. Among the inhabitants of the Sahara were the ancient nomadic ancestors of today's tribes who migrated with their herds across what was once sweeping grassland savannah interspersed with wide rivers and deep lakes. Lost Frontiers' Nomads of the Sahara will travel from the edge of the Sahel visiting the Woodabe and into the heart of the desert to some of the most remote oases on earth where the warlike Toubou live and where the Tuareg bring their caravans for the ancient ritual of collecting salt for barter in the south.
The Tuareg. The Arabic meaning of Tuareg is those cast out by God, but they are known in their own language as the Imasheren or free people. Descended from Berbers, history suggests that the Tuaregs migrated to the desert in the 7th century to escape the advances of Arabs from the East. They quickly adopted the camel as a means of transport and soon became the most feared force in the desert. In the past, their political and economic power was largely derived from raiding trans-Saharan caravans or exacting tribute from dependents. Ostensibly Islamic, Tuaregs are notably poor in practicing the teachings of the Koran, and worse, Tuaregs are matrilineal providing a socially strong position for women in their society
Inevitably, European colonization finally brought subjugation to the Tuaregs, but not without a fight and there are many tales of incredibly fierce resistance and terrible atrocities that prevented France's annexation of the Sahara for many decades. Independence brought different problems as it empowered sahelian tribes that had cooperated with the French who had traditionally been the enemies of the Tuareg. Finally in the early 90's, the Tuareg rose in rebellion fighting to create a separate trans-Saharan state that would be dominated by the Tuareg, but after years of futile engagements, they finally settled for an agreement that would provide a degree of autonomy, but not their freedom
After being impoverished by war and drought, the Tuareg are now working to improve their lives through such traditional economies as camel and goat rearing, some marginal agriculture and through tourism to some of the most magnificent geographical areas of the world
The Toubou. Often referred to as desert warriors living in the eastern and central Sahara, Toubou are a dark-skinned people of mixed ancestry, most likely of Nilotic descent. Toubou are also referred to as Teda, Tebu and Tiou; but Teda or Teda-too is what they call themselves. The Toubou traditionally derived their wealth and power from their razzias that raided caravans and as animal herders who despised agriculture, which they left to their slaves. Their traditional belief system was animistic until they converted to Islam about 1000 years ago
A majority of Toubou can be found in the Tibesti Mountains on the Libyan-Chad border, but they have also moved deeply into the deserts where they live in small family groups in isolated oases. Tuaregs acknowledge that the Toubou are a very tough people who often have hostile fights amongst themselves and with their neighboring tribes. Stealing and killing are fairly acceptable in their culture and even respected in some ways. It is quite common for Toubou women to fight among themselves. Women usually carry daggers, and up to a hundred years ago wore swords as well
The oldest man has main authority of a family unit until he dies. Marriage involves the payment of livestock, their main source of wealth that is transfered from the groom's family to the brides. Brides are as young as fifteen or sixteen, and the males are generally eighteen to twenty years old when they marry.
The writer Lloyd Briggs stated before he died, " I had begun with the assumption that a realistic picture of northern Teda life could be drawn by synthesizing the accounts of European explorers. As I look over this picture now, the impression is not one of primitive simplicity--it is one of unnatural blankness. I cannot believe that Teda culture is as featureless as it seems. Let us hope that some rugged, young desert-lover will take my notes with him to Tibesti, learn the Teda language, fill in all the gapping lacunae--and return to his university alive."
The Wodaabe. These are the last remaining sub-group of the Fulani people who are still nomadic herders primarily involved in cattle husbandry. Extreme in their traditions, their name Wodaabe means people of the taboo. Their origins are obscure, but it is theorized that the Fulani came from the tribes of Ethiopia some 5000 years ago settling in the Tassili in Algeria before migrating southwest following the desiccation of grasslands and escaping the expansion of the desert. Henri Lhote, who studied the rock art of the Tassili, noted that many ancient paintings bear remarkable resemblance to features and dress found on the Wodaabe today. From their center in Senegal, the Fulani began spreading east and in the 8th century could be found thereafter throughout much of West Africa. After converting to Islam, the Fulani increased in power and became a dominant force in the 19th century under Osman Dan Fodio. Of the nomadic Fulani today, the Wodaabe are the most numerous living in the marginal lands of the Sahel.
With a population of some 40,000, the Wodaabe are a small minority among the Fulani people. Their religion is Islam, but like many people of the Sahara, spirits, or djiins, are formidable forces that must be reckoned with. Beauty for the Wodaabe is of paramount importance and it is the men who must attract women. The Gerewol is an occasion where men dance for the women and great effort is spent on make up and in preparations. These dances are charm events where the men role their eyes, flash teeth and sway in a long line in an effort to gain the attention of the women seated before them. A man's wink and a shy downward look by a woman indicates that a match has been found.
The economy of the Wodaabe is animal husbandry with zebu cattle having an almost mythical importance. Camels are also reared and are of considerable value with goats and sheep being less so. Being nomadic, they move almost constantly foraging for new grasslands. The Wodaabe's desire for large herds and the great droughts of the late 20th century lead to widespread decimation of their land and starvation among their cattle reducing these proud people to a state of poverty that they have yet to overcome.
ur journey begins in the northern capital of Agadez heading eastward towards the oases of Fachi and Bilma following the ancient route of the Azalai. The caravans are among the last in existence and we see lines of hundreds of camels marching inexorably towards distant horizons that lead them to the desert salt ponds where the 'white gold' is extracted. Turning north, we travel into the heart of the most beautiful desert in the world, the Tenere, where we find a remoteness of almost indescribable beauty. Ochre colored dunes soar over 1,000' against a backdrop of blue marble and black basalt mountains while at night the silence is so intense that one can imagine the sound of the stars and meteors as the pass overhead in a cloudless sky.From the dunes of the Tenere, we penetrate the mountains of the Aiir, citadel of the warrior-like Tuaregs. The charming oasis of Timia is a jewel in the desert and here we will see the Tuareg little changed. Upon our return to Agadez, we'll slowly adjust to a more familiar world with showers and shops before leaving on our direct flight back to Paris..
Itinerary
Day 01
Arrive in the early evening on the Air France flight from Paris to Niamey, Niger. Hotel.
Day 02, 03
Drive from Niamey to Zinder via Madaoua, Maradi and Tessauoua. Camping.
Day 04, 05
The road turns northeast and we enter into a rarely visited area north Gouré that will take us by dirt track through Kellé and Boultoum in the Koutous Mountains and on to the Oasis of Tasker. Camping.
Day 06
Heading further into the desert brings us to the oasis of Termit, which located just west of the Massif de Termit. Camping.
Day 07
We depart today across the Grande Erg de Bilma, one of the great dunescapes of the Sahara to the oasis of Agadem. Camping.
Day 08
Our next destination is the Toubou oasis of Dibella where we will overnight. Camping.
Day 09, 10, 11
We now travel north across the dunes to towards the oasis of Zoo Baba. Although anyone can travel to fabled Timbuktu, few ever reach Zoo Baba! Our destination is Bilma, the administrative center of eastern Niger and the terminus of the fabled salt caravans known as the Azalai. Camping.
Day 12
We now follow the traditional path of the Azalai out into the sand dunes of the Ténéré towards the ancient Kanouri town of Fachi. Camping.
Day 13
We'll arrive in Fachi in the morning and will travel north towards the eastern edge of the Aiir Mountains. Camping.
Day 14
By early afternoon, we will arrive in the great amphitheater of Arakao and will spend the rest of the day exploring this wonderful mountain of sand that has been captured by the swirling winds off the desert in an ancient crater. Camping.
Day 15
Leaving the crater of Arakao, we continue westward into the heart of the mountains to Agamgam. Camping.
Day 16
The mountains become more rugged and more barren as we travel the ‘gardens’ of Timia. Ovenight at the fort or Guesthouse.
Day 17
The day begins with a parade of camels ridden by Tuaregs in their finery accompanied by the drumming and singing of the women. Camel races follow and then Tuareg warriors perform their intricate dances filled with spinning and leaps of great complexity. Overnight Guesthouse.
Day 18
We leave for Agadez where there are hot showers and a clean bed that could be somewhat overwhelming. Hotel.
Day 19
The day is free to visit Agadez. Hotel.
Day 20
There will be a little time in the morning for some last minute shopping or to walk the town before we transfer to our flight from Agadez to Niamey. The afternoon is free to visit Niamey followed by a dinner and late transfer to the airport for our flight back to Paris. End of services.Arrive Niamey. Hotel.
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